Fogo: The Timeless Charm Of The Volcanic Island

To the west of Santiago, Fogo emerges as a circular island that, up close, resembles a towering volcanic mountain. With an area of 476 km², it is the fourth-largest island in the Cape Verde archipelago and the highest, with its volcano reaching an impressive 2,829 meters above sea level.

Of volcanic origin, Fogo owes both its name and fame to the majestic volcano that dominates the island, serving as its main tourist attraction. At the heart of Fogo stands the volcanic cone, rising within an immense 8 km-wide caldera, known as Chã das Caldeiras. On the western side, the caldera’s steep walls reach up to 1,000 meters in height in some areas, culminating in a crater measuring 500 meters in diameter and 180 meters deep.

According to geologists, Fogo’s dramatic landscape is the result of a collapse and landslide of the eastern side of an ancient volcanic cone that once stood at 3,500 meters. The volcano remained active until the mid-18th century when the main crater ceased its eruptions. However, volcanic activity persisted at the base of the volcano, where secondary craters, fumaroles, and sulfur deposits continued to form.

Over the centuries, sporadic eruptions have occurred, with the most recent taking place in 1995. This event began with a violent explosion, followed by lava flows that emerged from two openings on the caldera’s flank.

Fogo was discovered in 1460, at the same time as Santiago, and was initially named São Felipe, a name that today belongs to the island’s capital. However, settlement only began later, towards the end of the 15th century, when agriculture started to develop. The island’s first major crops were cotton, followed by coffee and vineyards, as part of an effort to expand agricultural production.

Fogo’s coffee became famous for its distinctive aroma and exceptional quality, while its vineyards produced Manecon wine, which was primarily exported to Brazil. Thanks to its fertile volcanic soil, Fogo managed to maintain a certain degree of self-sufficiency in food production.

During the early colonial period, the cultivation of cotton required a significant labor force, which led to the introduction of enslaved workers from New Guinea. Over time, a textile industry and fiber processing developed. However, a volcanic eruption in the 1500s forced many inhabitants to flee to the nearby island of Brava.

The ongoing volcanic activity continued to impact life on the island. Between the 17th and 19th centuries, many residents emigrated, often boarding ships bound for North America. In fact, most Cape Verdean immigrants who settled in Boston, Massachusetts, originated from Fogo and Brava, forming one of the largest Cape Verdean communities abroad.

This wave of emigration had a significant effect on Fogo’s economy. Many returning emigrants took advantage of the struggling local economy to buy land, houses, and businesses, gradually shaping the island’s social landscape.

One of Fogo’s most intriguing features is found in Chã das Caldeiras, where it is common to encounter people with blond hair, blue or green eyes, and dark skin.

According to local legend, in the 19th century, a French nobleman, fleeing persecution in his homeland, sought refuge on the island. He is said to have settled permanently in Fogo, fathering numerous children with enslaved African women, who at the time served the small white elite living on the island. This unexpected genetic mix remains evident among the island’s inhabitants today.