São Nicolau: The Island Of Mountains And History

Located between the islands of Santa Luzia and Sal, São Nicolau stretches longitudinally from east to west for 25 km, with a maximum width of 16 km from north to south.

The western side of the island is greener and more fertile, while the eastern side is dry and arid, almost completely uninhabited.

A majestic mountain range runs across the island, with its highest point being Monte Gordo, reaching 1,304 meters above sea level. São Nicolau's volcanic origin is evident in the rugged terrain and geological composition of its eastern region.

The island’s valleys are generally narrow and deep, except for the Fajã valley, which is the only fertile and extensively cultivated area, gently opening towards the north. The coastline is predominantly rocky and jagged, with few natural harbors.

São Nicolau was likely discovered on December 6, 1461, by the navigator Diogo Afonso, a squire of Prince Henry the Navigator, during an expedition alongside António da Noli.

The first settlement was established on the western coast in the village of Porto da Lapa, of which only a few ruins and a fisherman’s hut remain today. However, during the 17th century, frequent pirate raids forced the inhabitants to abandon the coast and take refuge inland, in the valley of Ribeira Brava. This location offered better protection and had fertile land, which allowed for gradual population growth.

The lack of a safe port was only resolved in 1740, when the port of Preguiça was established and fortified with a defensive bastion, the ruins of which can still be seen today. Meanwhile, Tarrafal, which is now the island’s main port, was primarily used as a landing point, being well-protected from storms but far from Ribeira Brava, making it less convenient.

By 1731, São Nicolau had a population of approximately 260 inhabitants, mainly engaged in agriculture and livestock farming, particularly raising goats and donkeys. Over time, the island became a major religious and educational center, housing the first and only seminary in Cape Verde, as well as the bishop’s diocese.

For centuries, São Nicolau was a cultural hub not only for Cape Verde but also for Guinea-Bissau. The seminary trained missionary priests, who were later sent to Africa, along with civil servants who were deployed to other islands and colonial outposts along the West African coast.

However, between 1810 and 1900, repeated droughts severely impacted agriculture, leading to mass emigration towards the islands of Sal and São Vicente. Today, São Nicolau has lost its former influence to Praia, and life on the island remains closely tied to the ups and downs of agricultural development. Nevertheless, São Nicolau retains a unique charm, thanks to its rich history and unspoiled landscapes.

São Nicolau is a hiking and trekking paradise. The island is crisscrossed by a vast network of ancient trails, which once served as the main routes between villages and farms and are still in use today.

Here are some of the most fascinating trekking routes:

1️⃣ From Ribeira Brava to Tarrafal (via Calejão and Cabeçalinho)

• 3 km trail that crosses the valley of Ribeira Brava.
• The journey starts in Ribeira Brava, passing by Jumbo Residencial and leading to the old seminary, which is currently under restoration.
• After a curve, a scenic trail offers breathtaking views of the city and the Monte Gordo mountain range.
• The path continues past a natural spring, where a left turn leads up to the road to Calejão.
• Passing through terraced maize fields, the view opens up to the bay of Preguiça and the Ponta de Norte coastline.
• After about an hour of hiking, the trail reaches the main road that descends to Cachaga, near Cabeçalinho, and from there, 6 km to Tarrafal.

2️⃣ From Estância de Brás to Ribeira Funda

• A 1-hour trek, following a cliffside trail along the northern coast.
• Estância de Brás can be reached by car via a 1 km detour from the road leading to Fajã de Baixo.

3️⃣ From Ribeira da Prata to Fajã de Baixo

• A scenic trail connects Ribeira da Prata to Fajã de Baixo, crossing the Monte Gordo mountain range.

4️⃣ Hike to the Church of Nossa Senhora da Sentinha

• This ancient mule track follows the Ribeira Brava valley up to the Church of Nossa Senhora da Sentinha, near Cachaço.